What makes these Shawllar panels different from standard solar panels?
Shawllar's panels are 1.3mm thick—drastically thinner than traditional rigid solar panels—making them ideal for van roofs with limited space.
At a glance
Length
16 min
Channel
Urban Vanlife
Video from
Dec 2022
Rating
⭐⭐ Great video · 2/2
Best for
Van converters with space constraints seeking compact, high-wattage solar solutions
What this video answers
What makes these Shawllar panels different from standard solar panels?
Can I install thin solar panels myself, or do I need an electrician?
How do I route cables through a van roof without leaks?
What MPPT controller settings should I use for my van's battery?
How much solar can I fit on a small van roof with thin panels?
Reads the guide aloud in your browser — free, no account.
Installing Ultra-Thin Solar Panels on a Ford Transit Van
This video follows the Urban Vanlife team as they install Shawllar Energy's 1.3mm-thick solar panels on a Ford Transit Custom van conversion. Rather than the bulky rigid panels most van builders use, these micro-thin panels offer a game-changing alternative for compact builds where roof space is at a premium. The installation takes place on the completed van's roof, and the process covers everything from panel placement and adhesive application to wiring, cable routing, and MPPT controller setup.
This project suits anyone building or upgrading a small-to-medium van who wants to maximize solar capacity without sacrificing roof real estate for ventilation or other fixtures. It's particularly relevant for full-time van dwellers who need reliable off-grid charging but work within tight spatial constraints. The video emphasizes safety protocols and methodical installation steps, making it accessible to DIY builders with electrical confidence rather than professional electricians.
Key Moments
Key Installation Steps and Results
Two 100-watt ultra-thin solar panels, just 1.3mm thick, successfully adhered to the van roof using CT1 blue sealant and careful masking technique
Roof cable gland positioned centrally between the two panels, with negative and positive cables routed separately through the van's interior
20-amp MPPT charge controller mounted inside a rear cupboard, configured for lithium battery settings with quick-access display
Cables fed through rubber conduit and ferrite sleeves to prevent chafing and RF interference, with heat shrink applied throughout for tidiness
Complete integration with the van's existing lithium battery system, showing zero solar output during installation (nighttime test) but ready for charging
Remaining roof space preserved for future additions such as ventilation fans or roof vents
What You Need to Know Before Installing Solar on Your Van
Installation time: The full roof and wiring process takes a full day, with overnight curing required for sealant to harden before connecting power
Adhesive choice: The team uses CT1 blue sealant (blue dye visible if seepage occurs) but notes that various approved marine-grade sealants work—check your panel manufacturer's recommendations
Safety requirement: Solar panels produce live electrical current the moment they're exposed to daylight, regardless of voltage or amperage; proper cable management and caution are essential
Cable routing: Measure 12 inches inboard from the van roof edge to avoid interior pillars; use rubber conduit where cables pass through roof holes to prevent chafing on sharp edges
MPPT settings: Consult your battery manual for correct charge controller parameters (boost, float, and equalize modes) rather than relying on factory presets
Space efficiency: At just 1.3mm thick, these panels allow 200 watts of capacity on a small van roof while leaving room for vents or future upgrades
Frequently Asked Questions About Thin-Profile Solar Panel Installation
What makes these Shawllar panels different from standard solar panels?
Shawllar's panels are 1.3mm thick—drastically thinner than traditional rigid solar panels—making them ideal for van roofs with limited space. Unlike conventional panels with dedicated mounting points and frames, these adhere flat to the roof using marine-grade sealant, eliminating mounting hardware and preserving roof area for other fixtures.
Can I install thin solar panels myself, or do I need an electrician?
The installation shown is a DIY-friendly project for anyone with basic electrical knowledge and comfort handling live circuits. The roofing and adhesive work requires careful attention to detail but no specialist training. However, you must understand solar safety—these panels are live whenever exposed to daylight, and improper wiring can create serious hazards.
How do I route cables through a van roof without leaks?
The video demonstrates drilling a hole in the roof and using a waterproof cable gland (a threaded fitting that seals around cables). Cables are fed through the gland from inside the van, secured tightly, and sealed with sealant around the gland base. Rubber conduit protects cables where they pass through the hole, preventing chafing on the metal roof edge.
What MPPT controller settings should I use for my van's battery?
Don't rely on factory presets. Open your battery manual and find the manufacturer's recommended settings for boost mode, float mode, and equalize mode voltage thresholds. Enter these into the MPPT controller's user settings menu (access via the right-hand key on the display), then select your battery type (gel, flooded, or lithium). Incorrect settings can reduce battery lifespan or cause charging failures.
How much solar can I fit on a small van roof with thin panels?
Two 100-watt panels fit flat on a Ford Transit Custom roof, and because they're so thin, there's room to add more or incorporate other roof fixtures like ventilation fans. The actual capacity depends on your roof dimensions and weight limits; discuss your specific van with the panel manufacturer to determine the maximum safe wattage.
Additional Solar & Electrical Tips for Van Builders
An electronic device that regulates voltage and current from solar panels to safely charge a battery system, optimizing power transfer and protecting batteries from overcharge.
Cable gland
A waterproof threaded fitting that seals around electrical cables where they pass through a roof or wall, preventing water ingress while keeping cables organized.
Lithium battery settings
Specific voltage thresholds and charging modes programmed into a charge controller to safely charge lithium-ion batteries without damaging cells or reducing lifespan.
Sealant (CT1 blue)
A marine-grade adhesive and waterproof sealant used to bond panels to surfaces and seal joints against water penetration; blue dye helps identify any overflow during application.
Live circuit
An electrical circuit carrying active power that can cause serious injury or fire if touched or shorted; all solar panels produce live circuits whenever exposed to sunlight.
This video is genuinely valuable for van builders weighing their solar options. The Shawllar panels represent a real shift in what's possible for small builds, and the team's installation method—from masking technique to cable protection—is methodical and repeatable. What impressed me most was the emphasis on safety and proper MPPT configuration; too many van builds cut corners on electrical setup, and this video models it correctly.
The practical walkthrough of accessing the MPPT's settings menu and the explanation of why you must match your battery specs rather than guessing at presets alone makes this worth watching if you're serious about reliable off-grid power. Recommended for any DIY van builder considering solar.
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We fitted the thinnest solar panels from Shawllar Energy Technology Co these are the thinnest solar panels we have ever seen, so we installed them to our ford transit custom van conversion, the solar is 1.3mm thick and are the perfect solar panels for this small van build and perfectly fit on the roof of the van which means more solar could be fitted or even a roof vent. this ford transit custom van has been fully converted and is to a high speck and will make the perfect van for the owner, we have one more job to do on this van build and that's to add some off-grid heat into it and then it's all finished.
get your solar here and don't forget the discount code
Shawllar Energy Technology Co., Ltd.
Shawllar website: www.shawllar.com
Email: info@shawllar.com
Shopping website: www.shawllarlife.com
Discount Code： Vanlife
Discount: additional 10% OFF
WATCH MORE OF THE TRANSIT BUILD HERE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ll7x9-1K4k&list=PLJJuKX4eVu0XR0jyWZSz2FupfUtH_hEtT
#fordcustomvanbuild #solarpanels #urbanvanlife
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Video transcript for “Unbelievably THIN Solar Panels For Your Van Build” Accessibility
A full written transcript of this video, provided for accessibility. Select any timestamp to jump the video to that moment.
we need to get some power into this scale I love this scale this big blue one here while we were at the NEC we met a company didn't we yes we did who did we meet Joanna yeah Emma can say it I can't say it the company Emma said right now they do solar and
the thing that Drew us towards this company was the fact that the panels are micro thin panels like ridiculously look at them so we got two 100 watt panels one 20 amp mppt and enough cable
to wire a house so we're going to install solar onto the transit notice how I'm always doing the heavy lifter he's got one little light up no he hasn't even got one little item so what we're going to do is we're going to go on the roof we've cleaned the roof because it was a little bit dirty and we're going to
stick these down to the roof you'll notice on these panels there is no fixing points on them so they have to be glued down to the van with whatever choice of glue or sealant you require we're not engaging yeah we're not going to say you must use this type because somebody will only complain we've used
the wrong one so we're going to use the one that we think and other people who have done this type of job before have used the good thing about it is got a special one haven't we yes we have what's the special about it it's blue blue ceilings so if anything comes out on the edge we're gonna know right just a bit of a
disclaimer these are solar panels they produce energy mainly in the form of electric now you start plugging wires into this they are live the minute this is outside into daylight these putting out a live feeds so be extremely careful because you are using and you are connecting to live feeds
doesn't matter the amperage doesn't matter the voltage they are live some people say well it's only 12 volt only a couple of amps be careful just be careful it's live don't mess with live and cables live and capable live and cables both or most people would say live cables just think about your safety first guys
that's what he's trying to get to so they have connections on the end male and female we are going to be plugging into them again be careful some people cover the panels up some people don't we're not going to be covering them up because we think we know what we're doing a lot of people would beg to differ
a lot of people probably eighty percent of the people but to us we've never had a problem have we 've not blown us up yet babe no we're good right let's get on the roof and decide where we're going to put these panels got up onto the roof and we've placed our panels towards the back of the
vehicle because the wind flow comes this way as you're driving so what we've done is we've got majority of the panel is going to be stuck down on this part here small part of the panel struck down back there and then in between we can place our gland there and then the cables can come into
that from these connections here the cables the which are the side cables here they're going to run through this pass here and then they're going to go into the gland there but we need to get these stuck down first and then we can tackle the cables and the glands so once our panels are in place what we are going to
do is we are going to take the positive off this panel and the negative of the other panel and we're gonna connect those together and then we'll have a positive and a negative feed from either side going into the van so the cable is going to run it through this gland which we are going to place right in the
middle there of the two panels just like that right there so it keeps the whole panels nice and neat and tidy so firstly we're going to mask around the edges of the panels just so that we know that we're not going to have any seepage from the sealant when we put it under and we know
where it ends let's get teeth let's get a masking now the reason we've put the tape on is that when we mask on it over there if any of it comes out we can just rub it peel this back and we get a nice neat line on to the next job taking the panels off and putting the sealant on
right we're going to be using ct1 blue a lot of people have used this in the past it's caused no problem for nobody so I thought we're going to use okay then right let's get this on the roof
right now we've got the um sticky stuff on time to get the panels up right we do have a little bit of seepage that's come through there so we're just going to wipe that off then we can take all the mastic off then peel the tape off
as you can see now we've taken the mastic off we've got a perfect line right there right so we've measured 12 inches back from the rubber which gives us that spot right there which lands up to the roof on the inside so we can get this on and we can have it that way we're going to
go with it that way and then we're going to pull the cables across there and go Direct in so by measuring 12 inches in it means that we've missed just missed this inner pillar here which is what I wanted to do and then you can just see through there I don't know if you can but the light
might be good enough we can just see the ceiling right the way through there but there's enough space there for us to get the cables through we're going to clean this up then we can put the cables through and get this on and then we can leave it overnight for all the actual sealants to go off and go hard but we
need to get the cables through there first get the FED into the van and just get them hanging out the back here right so we have thread some copper wire through which we've managed to get through down and under what we've done up top is tape the wires to the other end of this and then we're
just going to feed it through and down so we've got enough Cable in there and we've got plenty cable up here close the belt connect the solar panels to the mppc now what we can do after getting the cables through is we can feed these through the actual gland and then it's all sealed up once it's on
the roof that's done we're done with the roof then apart from connecting these two together which we're going to do later on now what we're going to do is because the cable goes through the moot roof and there's no gland on there we'll just put some rubber Condors on I'm just going to feed that
all the way into the hole that way none of the cable is going to rub on the edge of the van which is perfect also this side is going to be negative that side is positive so out of our glands we've got the negative here positive there which is dead easy because we've got the gland off
we can feed them through from the inside just like that negative and then once we've cleaned this we can
then put this down and we can seal that to the roof we've got our two cables in the right order coming out of the gland then all we have to do is tighten these up to close the seal on it all goes but what we'll do first is and get a bit of sealant around there seal around here and then we place that
down and leave that overnight for it to all go off we've gone a bit mad around there but I want that to stay sealed so there's not going to be any issues just in case there's a leak a little bit of added extra security and then I'm just going to go around there
and we just go around tidy that off leave that overnight and it's all done Okay so we've got all the cables through all connected left one off haven't we the positive because we don't want to go Click Click Boom Click Click Boom that sounds bad so now we're going to mount the mppc good thing with these is
it comes with a little whole thing so you know where to actually drill your holes um I have put some screws in there and we're going to see whether this lines up with that so Emma can go in right so we've got that mounted on there
what's next right so first we've got to run the cables from the battery to the mppt so while off the mppt to your battery first before you connect your solar yes right we need to put some lugs on the battery cables and make sure they're all safe and tidy on top of the battery and
connect them properly so let's uh see how much cable we need they're both on so we can just put some heat shrink on them just to tidy them up [Applause] to the battery once you've got the
battery cables connected up we'll measure the length because we've got loads of lens in the back I'll show you now we've got tons of length left in the back there just to make sure we can go through so once I said Emma's finished doing that then we can cut them off connect it up to the mppt and then
connect it to the battery [Applause] right so as you can see we've left it overnight all the cables are on now and we've decided to go in this way with this we were going to run the cables through this Gap here we just thought having the actual cable glands facing this way it was going to be better
because the air saws are aerodynamically made for the wind to come over this way so we've just come along there with the cables straight in on each one connected off there they're all sealed up they're all sealed just cabled it down to there and then gone straight in so they are nice and neat and tidy on the
roof right so all the cables that are going into the mppt we did actually put ferrets on them just to tidy them all up a little bit and we're just going to put some heat shrink over them like that and then get the heat strings so it's all nice and secure right so this is going to be really hard to show but there's
your screen there and we're not getting any solar at the moment because it's absolutely with it's near enough dark and but we've got it set on the bottom there to lithium to change that also get into the settings you hold the right hand key then you can choose between gel solid [Music]
flooded you can go to use that which is the actual settings so if you wanted to change the settings or the parameters within the Box you go to use USA then press enter then it will give you from 12 volt 24 volts we want it on 12. so which is that one press enter then you can go on your equalize mode
you can go in your Boost modes and you can go in your float mode then you've got low voltage and high voltage and then you're back to your battery so we're going to go back onto lithium and then hold that key and then it will set it so set your parameters on basically what type of battery you've
got um don't rely on prefix settings go in and actually look at your battery find out what the settings are on your battery for your boost your flows and things like that and basically just do it that way in the manual itself there is a page where it will give you recommendations
for settings for each type of battery um whether you decide to go off these settings isn't totally up to you but that's the unit in there now it's all set in we put it in that cupboards basically so if you're standing here at the back of the van you can see the actual controller in there it's all out the way
and then you can't see nothing but if you wanted to get in and to see the solar panel controller you can see it right there batteries all connected everything's connected to the solar panel everything's in evidence working evidence neat tidy tucked away and done so that is solar visit to the Ford
Transit but if you do want to get yourselves a set of these Slimline solar panels I'll leave all the links in the description to the company we got them from get in touch with them and see what they can do for you so right we've got more jobs to do now after doing all that we might have to
move this cupboard out a little bit because we've got a nice heater going in somewhere don't really know where we're going to put it because it's not a massive space we can't put it under the swivel seats we will have to figure that one out as we go right I'm gone catch you later
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