Yes, but with limits. The 2,000W inverter successfully ran the camper's AC unit at its low setting, which drew approximately 400 watts.
At a glance
Length
15 min
Channel
DIY Volts
Video from
Sep 2025
Rating
⭐⭐ Great video · 2/2
Best for
Camper owners wanting off-grid power without a full electrical rebuild.
What this video answers
Can this system really power an air conditioner?
How long does it take to charge the battery from empty?
What's the resistor trick for when connecting the battery?
Do I need to upgrade my camper's wiring to install this?
What happens if I run out of battery power?
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How to Install a Simple Solar System in Your Camper
Seth from DIY Volts walks through a straightforward four-component solar installation for a camper, turning it into an off-grid power source. The tutorial focuses on a minimal setup using two 200W flexible solar panels, a 40-amp MPPT charge controller, a single 12.8V lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery with 1,280 watt-hour capacity, and a 2,000W pure sine wave inverter. Rather than overhauling the camper's electrical system, the approach cleverly repurposes the existing 30-amp shore power cable by routing it through the new inverter, allowing standard AC appliances to run directly from the battery.
This setup suits weekend warriors and full-time RVers who want to boondock without a full electrical rebuild. It's ideal if you're comfortable with basic DC wiring and have access to roof or ground space for solar panels. The video emphasizes that this is achievable in tight spaces—Seth installs both the charge controller and inverter inside the camper's existing equipment hatch, showing that you don't need a sprawling installation area.
Key Moments
Key Moments in the Solar Installation
Two separate 200W solar panels are connected in series so their combined output feeds the charge controller
The charge controller is mounted vertically in a cramped equipment hatch, with the inverter positioned below it to maximize airflow
A resistor trick prevents capacitor-charging spark when connecting the battery to the inverter for the first time
The system successfully runs an air conditioning unit at 400 watts, with the battery voltage holding steady in sunlight
A $12 30-amp-to-120V adapter from Walmart bridges the gap between the camper's shore power plug and the inverter's standard outlets
The charge controller displays real-time voltage and charging status, climbing from 11.1V (low battery) to 12.5V within minutes of sunlight exposure
What You Should Know Before Starting
Space and mounting: The charge controller and inverter fit inside a stock camper equipment hatch, though it's tight. Plan for airflow around both units.
Wiring gauge: Seth uses 14-gauge wire between the charge controller and battery; solar panel connections use MC4 connectors that must be wired in series.
Battery pre-charging: Use a resistor across the inverter's positive and negative terminals for a few seconds before connecting the battery cable to prevent sparking from rapid capacitor charging.
System power draw: The inverter draws ~31 watts continuously even when nothing is plugged in, so turn it off when away from the camper for extended periods.
Battery voltage window: The LiFePO4 battery charges to approximately 13.5V in normal conditions and up to 14.4V in full sun. The system voltage may drop to around 13V under load, which is still safe.
Missing safety components: Seth notes that a main disconnect fuse or breaker should be installed between the battery and the rest of the system, though he did not include this in the demo.
Charging speed: A 40-amp charge controller with 400 watts of input takes time to fully recharge the battery, especially if you're using power during the day.
Frequently Asked Questions About DIY Camper Solar
Can this system really power an air conditioner?
Yes, but with limits. The 2,000W inverter successfully ran the camper's AC unit at its low setting, which drew approximately 400 watts. However, running the air conditioner simultaneously with other high-draw appliances like a hot plate or dehumidifier would exceed the inverter's capacity and trigger an over-wattage fault.
How long does it take to charge the battery from empty?
The 40-amp charge controller can input a maximum of 600 watts, and Seth's system generates about 400 watts from two panels in good sun. With that input, a fully depleted 1,280 watt-hour battery would theoretically take roughly three hours to charge from zero—though real-world conditions and partial discharge cycles mean the math varies. Using the system during daytime will slow recharging.
What's the resistor trick for when connecting the battery?
A large resistor (placed between the inverter's positive and negative terminals for a second or two) pre-charges the inverter's internal capacitors slowly, preventing the spark and potential damage that occurs when capacitors charge instantaneously from a fully charged battery.
Do I need to upgrade my camper's wiring to install this?
No. The existing shore power cable that normally plugs into an external 30-amp receptacle is simply rerouted to the inverter instead. A $12 adapter converts the 30-amp camper plug to a standard 120V household outlet, which the inverter supplies. The rest of the camper's original 120V wiring remains unchanged.
What happens if I run out of battery power?
The inverter will shut off when the battery voltage drops too low, cutting power to all AC outlets. You'll need either sunlight to recharge the panel or an external charger. To extend runtime, you can add more batteries to the system—LiFePO4 batteries are lighter than lead-acid alternatives, making it practical to fit multiple units without overloading the camper's weight capacity.
A device that converts DC power from solar panels to the correct voltage and amperage needed to safely charge a battery without overcharging.
LiFePO4 battery (lithium iron phosphate)
A lightweight, long-lasting rechargeable battery chemistry that holds more usable energy and weighs less than traditional lead-acid batteries for the same capacity.
Pure sine wave inverter
A device that converts DC battery power into clean AC household power, safe for running sensitive electronics like air conditioners and computers.
MC4 connector
A weatherproof plug used to connect solar panels together or to charge controllers without exposing bare wire.
Watt-hour capacity
A measure of how much energy a battery can store; a 1,280 watt-hour battery can deliver 1,280 watts for one hour, or 100 watts for 12.8 hours.
Shore power
The electrical connection from an external campground or home electrical pedestal to a camper or RV.
This video delivers real value because it strips away the intimidation factor of solar installation. Seth shows that you don't need to hire an electrician or rip apart your camper—you can work within the spaces and systems you already have. The practical touches, like the resistor spark-prevention trick and the $12 adapter hack, prove he's actually done this before.
What stands out most is the honest limitations section at the end. Rather than overselling the system, Seth explains exactly why you can't run an AC and a cooktop at the same time, and why a single battery might need expansion for real full-timing. If you're looking to add solar to your camper without a complete overhaul, this is the clearest roadmap I've seen.
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In this video, I walk you through the step-by-step process of installing a solar power system in a camper for off-grid adventures! I use two 200W solar panels to efficiently charge a Redodo 12.8V LiFePO4 (LFP) battery, paired with a Redodo 40A MPPT charge controller for optimal energy management. To power our appliances, I installed a Redodo 2000W pure sine wave inverter, delivering clean and reliable AC power. Watch as I test the system by running an air conditioner unit to ensure everything works perfectly. Whether you're a full-time RVer or a weekend camper, this solar setup will keep you powered up!
You can find the exact components used from these links:
12.8v LFP Battery: https://amzn.to/3VmGfoD
40 amp Charge Controller: https://amzn.to/42wgSV8
2000w Inverter (New Version): https://amzn.to/4mp8cqU
Solar Panels used: https://iallpowers.com/products/allpowers-sf200-flexible-solar-panel-200w
DIY Volts is a participant in the Amazon Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com
Video transcript for “Easy Install Solar Power to a Camper - Only 4 components needed” Accessibility
A full written transcript of this video, provided for accessibility. Select any timestamp to jump the video to that moment.
Welcome to DIY Volts. I'm Seth. Today I'm going to be installing solar power into this camper. Now, there are multiple ways you can install solar power, but in this version, I'm going to be doing a very simple install. I'm going to have a charge controller, an inverter, solar panels, and a battery.
Now, this system right here could have solar connected in other ways, but in order to run the camper off of the system, I'm just going to take the shore power, the cable from the indoor unit and bring it over and plug it up into the inverter, and it's just going to kind of run off of itself, if that makes
sense. So, let me go ahead and show you the equipment I'm going to use, and then we will get to this installation. There are four main components that I'm going to be installing today. First of all, I have two of these 200 W flexible solar panels. These will have MC4 connectors and connect together. I'll
point them into the sun and it will provide power to the next component, which is a charge controller. This is going to take the DC power from the solar panels and it's going to read the voltage of the battery and charge the battery until it's full and not go any more than that. So, I've got the charge
controller. This is the battery I've got. It's a lithium iron phosphate 12.8 battery. And that will allow us to run several things in the camper from the solar. And then lastly is this 200 watt pure sinewave inverter. This is what's going to take the power from the battery, convert it into AC power, and
have regular receptacles right here. So, with these four components, we should be able to get this camper up and running with some solar. All right, let's go ahead and start the first installation, which is going to be the charge controller right here. This particular camper has a hatch here on the front.
And if you look inside, it's got a spot that says future charge controller and future inverter location. You can see the little sticker right there. This little board is actually quite flimsy, but it is the place they want you to hang this equipment. So, I'm going to do is use some small screws here, and I'm
going to use a drill, and I'm going to put the charge controller up in here, but I'm also going to try to find a place where the inverter can be down here as well. So, uh, I'm going to see if I can film any of this, but as you can see, it's quite a tight space. I brought the inverter in here so that I
could hold the charge controller up on top of it and just make sure there was sufficient room in here. And there is, but it's close. So, what I may end up doing is moving uh the charge controller this way a bit more so I can get to its screws and move the inverter that way some. All right. This really is some
tight quarters in here. So, I have pre- drilled to hopefully get this in here on camera for you. But I'm just going to put the inverter down here on the bottom. Luckily, the Roodto 200 watt inverter has the power button and the receptacles over here on this side and also the screen to make this
easier to see. I got the inverter down here and hopefully I'll be able to get the charge controller over here and that will give it enough space that I can access the screws over here and give enough space up top for any airflow that needs to pass through. So, all right. Um, go ahead and get some screws installed
here. All right. How did I do here? Okay, not too bad. I now have the charge controller and the inverter installed. Now it's time to put the battery in place. Let me get that set here. Now, this is just a single 12.8 lithium
iron phosphate battery, which means it has a 1,280W hour capacity. So, it's not going to be able to run tons, but you could easily put more than one battery in here. Now, keep in mind that if you use the lithium iron phosphate, it is much lighter and lasts a lot longer than your lead acid
batteries. And that means uh you can do a lot more with them and even have more of them because it won't be so heavy on your uh vehicle as you have to tow this around. All right. Now, obviously, we would want to have this battery locked down, otherwise it may uh have some sliding
around issues, but just for the sake of demonstration, I'm going to get this uh installed here. So, what I'm going to do is find the positive and negative terminals. So, this side over here is the positive. See how it's red? And this one over here is the negative. It is black. And I'm going to take these
cables. I've got uh this one right here, the black one. And I'm going to uh get this attached here. Now, one thing to note, whenever you go to attach a battery to an inverter, sometimes the battery will uh shock or spark because the uh capacitors inside the inverter are being charged too
quickly. Um so, I've actually got a big resistor that will prevent that spark from happening. I know it's tight spaces and hard to see here, but if I place a resistor like this into that terminal and then touch here, it will slowly charge those capacitors. Wait a second or two. And now if I
remove that and then stick my cable to that terminal, it will not have a spark. See, no spark. If you look here on the charge controller, you'll see where it has solar panels over here and battery over here. I'm going to take some wire. Currently, I've got some 14 gauge and I'm going to put the positive negative
in here and then attach the other side to the battery. Now, these wires right here have an MC4 connector on them, and that is going to connect to the solar panels. The other end, as you can see right here, is just
bare wire that is going to be connected into the charge controller. So, let's do this first and then we will connect our solar panels together. The black wire once again is the negative side and that's going to go over here on this one.
Now I have two solar panels and you can see they are separate. So what I'm going to do is run these in series. So the negative of this one will go to the positive of that one. And then the overall positive negative between the two of them will go to the camper. So if you look up here, we've got a tag that
says this is a negative. So I'm going to grab that one. I'm going come over here and get the positive of this panel and connect these together. Now it's time to take the overall positive and negative of these two panels and connect them to the charge controller. Now my uh MC4 connector on
this red wire is actually backwards. Um it should be the other way around. So this is actually acting as my negative and then this one right here will be the positive. All right, we've got some good news. There are now lights here showing up on the charge controller. We have solar input. The battery has been
detected and there is an error. I believe the error is that the battery is running a little bit low because I went to turn it on earlier and it had a an issue. So, but we have some good news that sunshine is going to the battery. So, let me let this sit for a little while and then see if we can turn uh
inverter on. I used a multimeter and checked the battery. It was at 11.1 volts, so it was low. However, a few minutes in the sun and the battery is now showing 12.5 as it is charging. So, this system is working correctly. Now, just for the fun of it, let me try turning this on and see if we get any
power. Yep, we do have power on the inverter now. Very cool. It says 12.4 and 12.5. So, consistency is good. All right. Now, this doesn't have anything connected to it yet, but let me show you what we're going to do to get this connected to our camper. This plug right here is a 30 amp plug that's coming from
the camper. This normally would plug up to a 30 amp receptacle and have shore power or normal grid power. The inverter that we just installed has typical house plugs that look a lot like this one right here. So, in order to get these to connect, I've just simply got an adapter. I found this at Walmart for
about $12. So, I'm going to plug these up right here. And that turns the 30 amp cable into the standard 120 outlet as you see right here. So, let's go ahead and plug this into the inverter and then test out our system. Now, if we were to look on the charge controller, we'll see that it has a voltage of 13.5.
So the battery is going to be uh holding or fully charged at around 13.5, but it will actually reach 14.4 volts whenever it is in maximum sun and in the charging cycle. So whenever we turn on the inverter, this number of 13.5 may drop down a little bit. I'm going to take this cable and plug it into one of
these receptacles here on the inverter. There we go. I'm going to turn the inverter on. It says 13.4 volts on the battery. Uh-oh. Something has turned on inside. Inside the camper, we have got this. I think it's off, though. Well, let's test out some lights here.
That one is working good. I think this inverter and battery should have sufficient power to run the air conditioner. Oh yeah, that's on. Let's go check our power draw. That AC unit is pulling around 400 watts whenever it's turned on to the uh low setting. As predicted, the battery voltage did drop down to about
13, which is still fine with the amount of sunshine that's coming into this right now. So, this air conditioner is pulling 400 watts. Let's go ahead and turn that off. If I try to run the air conditioner and something else big such as this dehumidifier and maybe even a a plug-in cooktop, it may end up having an
issue where it uh triggers a over voltage or over wattage on that inverter. I have the air condition turned off and this is pulling 31 watts off of the battery. Now, keep in mind that inverters like this will continue to draw power even if nothing is running. So, if you know you're going to
be gone for a certain amount of time, go ahead and turn off your inverter. Now, this inverter does not have a remote plug, but some of them do, and you can turn this off from inside. Um, so in this case, I just have to push that power button to turn it off. Now, the charge controller will continue to
charge even if the inverter is turned off. And there we have it. That is one way to connect solar power to a camper like this. Just simply install a charge controller, a battery, and an inverter. And then plug the cable that goes to the rest of the RV into that inverter using a special cable to go from the 30 amp
plug to the uh regular typical house outlet. Now, you may have noticed there are a few things missing. Uh either a fuse or a breaker. Uh it's true, I have one. I just didn't bring what I needed to get that installed. And so, uh, you definitely want to have either a main disconnect for this system or have a
fuse like this or a breaker in order to turn things off whenever needed. Now, what are the limitations of running this type of system in a camper? So, keep in mind that that battery is only a 1,280 W hour and the inverter is a 2,000 watt output. So, if I were to turn on, say, the air conditioner at 700 watts, and
then try to use a hot plate, which may also be uh plugged in and electric, then it would probably trip the uh inverter sensor as uh over wattage because we're using too much watts. So, in this case, I would have to turn off the air conditioner in order to cook with a cook plate. Um, so just keep that in mind. If
your camper is connected to shore power, it might try to pull more out of the inverter than the inverter is capable of doing. Now, I'm just using a 12vt system with a 12volt inverter, and that means you can do sometimes a 3000 watt inverter, but you can't really do much more than that. Um, so just keep that in
mind. There are some limitations on this system. Also, the charge controller that I've got has a maximum input of I think 100 uh volts, and you can do 40 amp, 600 watts max. So, it may take a little while for that battery to fully charge with that amount of power. So, I've currently got 400 watts charging that
battery. And if you're using it during the day, it may take some time for that battery to charge back up. What would be beneficial is if I had two, three, maybe even four batteries in this system that would have a lot more storage and potential for running this size camper. Thank you so much for watching. I'm Seth
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