What's the difference between a PWM and MPPT charge controller?
PWM (pulse width modulation) is older but highly effective for smaller RV systems (100–200 watts) and costs roughly $50–100. MPPT (maximum power point tracking) is more advanced and performs better in very large systems or cloudy climates, but costs considerably more and typically requires indoor installation.
At a glance
Length
23 min
Channel
DIY Outdoor Life
Video from
Aug 2021
Rating
⭐⭐ Great video · 2/2
Best for
RV owners considering their first solar setup or upgrading from basic car-battery power.
What this video answers
What's the difference between a PWM and MPPT charge controller?
Can I just plug solar panels directly into my battery?
How do I know what size battery to buy for my RV?
Are flexible tape-on solar panels as good as rigid glass panels?
What's a realistic budget for a beginner RV solar setup?
Reads the guide aloud in your browser — free, no account.
Understanding RV Solar Setup for Beginners
This tutorial walks you through the complete fundamentals of adding solar power to your RV, targeting the most common real-world setup: a couple of hundred watts of solar panels paired with a 10 or 20 amp charge controller. Rather than diving into expensive, ultra-high-performance systems designed for full-time off-grid living, the video focuses on practical knowledge and affordable components that actually work for typical RV travelers.
The tutorial is ideal if you're considering adding solar to your camper but feel overwhelmed by conflicting advice online, or if you want to install a system yourself without dropping thousands of dollars. It's suitable for anyone with basic DIY confidence who understands that smaller, well-matched systems often outperform oversized setups that drain your budget.
Key Moments
Key Topics Covered in This Solar Tutorial
Battery capacity as the foundation of your system—understanding amp-hour ratings and why a three-day self-sufficient window matters
Monocrystalline versus polycrystalline panel technology and why one is clearly superior for RV use
Fixed versus portable solar panels, including glass suitcase-style, foldable, and flexible tape-on options with honest pros and cons for each
PWM versus MPPT charge controllers—why PWM is practical (and cheap) for typical 100–200 watt setups despite online claims that MPPT is mandatory
System sizing using straightforward math: calculating your daily wattage needs and matching panels and controllers accordingly
Real product examples at different price points, from budget kits to premium all-in-one systems
What to Know Before Setting Up Your RV Solar System
Video length: Approximately 22 minutes, broken into digestible sections from battery basics through final sizing conclusions
Math required: The tutorial includes a straightforward "3rd grade math" section (around 16:52) to help you size panels and controllers—no calculus, just simple multiplication and division
Battery capacity is critical: Start by determining what size battery you need; most RVers should aim for capacity that supports three days of camping without solar or shore power
Panel type affects performance: Portable glass panels in suitcase configuration deliver better real-world energy harvesting than fixed roof-mounted panels because you can angle them toward the sun and park in shade if needed
Waterproof charge controllers matter: The video emphasizes that PWM controllers rated for outdoor weather are more practical for RVs than indoor MPPT units that require enclosures
Connectors and wiring: Budget kits sometimes skimp on quality connectors; higher-end systems (like Goal Zero) integrate connectors that work seamlessly with the brand's ecosystem
Common Questions About Adding Solar to Your RV
What's the difference between a PWM and MPPT charge controller?
PWM (pulse width modulation) is older but highly effective for smaller RV systems (100–200 watts) and costs roughly $50–100. MPPT (maximum power point tracking) is more advanced and performs better in very large systems or cloudy climates, but costs considerably more and typically requires indoor installation. For the average RV solar setup, PWM delivers nearly identical real-world performance at a fraction of the cost.
Can I just plug solar panels directly into my battery?
No—this is a common beginner mistake. A charge controller is essential because it regulates the energy from the panel and converts it into a safe charging profile for your battery. Without one, the panel will overcharge and damage the battery.
How do I know what size battery to buy for my RV?
The video recommends sizing your battery so you can camp for three days (Friday through Sunday, for example) without solar input and without dropping to dangerously low voltage. This three-day window acts as a buffer for cloudy weather or days when you don't deploy portable panels. Your actual capacity depends on your power consumption—how often you use lights, fans, water pumps, and appliances.
Are flexible tape-on solar panels as good as rigid glass panels?
Rigid glass panels deliver superior performance and durability, while flexible panels are lightweight and easier to store. The tradeoff is that flexible panels are fragile during handling and installation, and they can't be angled toward the sun the way portable glass panels can, so most people experience lower real-world output from them.
What's a realistic budget for a beginner RV solar setup?
Budget-friendly complete kits (like Renogy 100W) start around $200–300 but offer lower quality and performance. Mid-range all-in-one kits (Goal Zero) run $400–600. If you're building a custom system with separate high-quality panels, a proper controller, and a larger battery, expect $800–1500. The video includes product links at multiple price points so you can choose what fits your situation and priorities.
A solar panel made from a single crystal structure, offering higher efficiency and better performance per dollar than older polycrystalline technology.
Amp-hour (Ah)
A unit of battery capacity measuring how much current a battery can deliver over one hour; a 100 Ah battery can supply 100 amps for one hour or 50 amps for two hours.
Charge controller
A device that regulates power from solar panels and converts it into a safe charging profile for a battery, preventing overcharge damage.
PWM charge controller
An affordable, older-style controller that works highly effectively for small RV solar systems (100–200 watts) and can operate outdoors in wet conditions.
MPPT charge controller
A more advanced controller that maximizes energy harvest in large systems or cloudy climates, but typically costs more and requires indoor installation.
This tutorial fills a real gap in RV solar content. Most online guides assume you're either a complete novice or building a $5,000 lithium fortress; this one speaks directly to the 90 percent of RVers running modest 100–200 watt systems with AGM batteries. Brian's willingness to defend PWM charge controllers against the MPPT dogma that dominates forums shows he's prioritizing practical advice over hype.
What I valued most was the battery-first philosophy—the "rain barrel" analogy makes it instantly clear why undersized batteries will always be your limiting factor regardless of how many panels you bolt on. If you're genuinely shopping for solar gear rather than just researching, this video will save you money and disappointment. I'd recommend it without hesitation.
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RV Solar 101: Everything you need to know about the typical RV solar charging set up.
By far, the most common RV solar charging set up includes a couple hundred watts of solar panels and a 10 or 20 amp charge controller. Unfortunately, most of the best content and instructional include lessons on very expensive, ultra-high performance systems. In this video, we go through everything you need to know about solar charging components, product selection, and sizing in order to allow you to install you own highly effective system for a lot less money!
VIDEO CHAPTERS
0:00 - Intro
0:50 - Equipment Needed
1:29 - The Battery!
4:07 - Solar Panels
10:57 - Charge Controllers
15:07 - Connectors
16:07 - Sizing System Intro
16:52 - 3rd Grade Math Classroom
18:26 - Average Daily Wattage on Panels
20:04 - Sizing Panels
21:33 - Sizing Charge Controller
21:56 - Conclusions
Products mentioned in this video (Amazon Affiliate Links*)
Goal Zero 100w All in One Kit - https://amzn.to/3D0AN09
-This kit includes everything you need to install 100w of solar to your RV (high quality)
*Also Available in 200w
Budget Friendly
The Renogy Kit is Cheaper, a lot of friends have had luck here, I own one and it is considerably lower quality and performance but does the job
Renogy 100w kit - https://amzn.to/3mkMFUL
Charger Controllers
GZ 10a - https://amzn.to/2XwBjTc
GZ 20a - (currently sold out)
- - These PWM chargers plug in directly to GZ panels, this allows you to easily use your GZ panel for your Yeti, Jackery, most power stations AND your camper
Renogy - Buy Factory Direct-
renogy.sjv.io/5g46gD
Use Promo Code: AFFILIATEUS
Renogy 20a PWM- https://amzn.to/3yX7KYS
- Cheap and effective, you will have to wire yourself and purchase connectors
Victron MPPT (not waterproof)- https://amzn.to/37X2WHi
^^Excellent if protected from weather
Please feel free to comment with product questions, I'm happy to help!
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* Amazon Affiliate Links provide me with a very small percentage of the sale with no additional cost to the buyer. Please support DIYOL by using my links for any Amazon purchase. Thanks!
Video transcript for “RV Solar 101 : Everything a Beginner Needs to Know !” Accessibility
A full written transcript of this video, provided for accessibility. Select any timestamp to jump the video to that moment.
[Music] hey brian here with diy outdoor life today's an exciting video because we're going to be talking about solar this is a super exciting topic i've been obsessed with this since i was a kid and i used to cover up the calculator panel in math class and watch the screen fade out now a lot has
developed in the last 10 years this equipment is more advanced and it's a lot more affordable the problem is there are some challenges when you're talking about sizing and sorting through all of the different gear that's available on the market i'm going to try to make this easier for you today we're going to make
this beginner friendly and cover all of these topics in great detail so let's uh be patient and stay tuned so the equipment we need to charge our camper from the sun is obviously a solar panel and we obviously need a battery on the camper but we're also going to need a charge controller this is the brains
of the operation this is what takes the energy from a solar panel and converts it into a charging profile that can be used for a battery a lot of beginners just starting off don't know about charge controllers i find questions all the time on the internet about plugging solar panels into an rv this is an
essential component otherwise a solar panel would overcharge or damage the battery when we're first getting started the most important part of this equation is actually the battery on our rv this is the bottleneck this is the weak link in the equation and when i see people just getting started off asking
questions about solar a lot of people come in and start talking about different types of panels and the charge controller this is where you have to start now what i'm concerned with is the amount of capacity you have on your rv battery this is an agm battery and it has a 100 amp hours that means we can
use 50 amp hours so whether you have a 50 amp hour lithium or 100 amp hour agm you have the same capacity now i'll put a tag to another video i did comparing different battery chemistries for rv but for today we're talking about that capacity i want you to realize that this is like a rain barrel and if you have a
small rain barrel and it's raining out by about 9 a.m the barrel is going to start to overflow that energy is wasted it's the same with your battery if your rv came with a 50 amp hour agm or a type of car battery you're not going to be able to store the energy that you're creating
from solar panels so everything upstream of the battery is wasted so we have to start here now unfortunately i'm not able to tell you what capacity battery you need without a bunch of questions and a lot of consultations but i can give you a tip here you're going to want to be able to go
for about three days unplugged with no solar without running your battery down to low voltage this is a very important number if you can go friday saturday sunday on just your battery then we know once we go to solar that we can handle a rainy day or a day that we don't have to set
our solar equipment out if your battery is so small that you deplete it after one night camping you're going to run into the same issues even if you spend a lot of money on solar now these numbers are going to be different whether you live in san diego or you live in seattle but what i'm getting at is that if you
don't have enough capacity to bridge some periods of time without your solar hooked up you're not going anywhere anyway so let's start with that capacity a three day capacity once our battery is sized properly we can start thinking about solar panels now there is a million and one different
types of solar panels out there so i'm gonna narrow this down and make a couple recommendations and then i'm gonna break things into categories to compare the pros and cons for you for starters panels can come in monocrystalline or polycrystalline now monocrystalline you get more bang for the buck the panels
work better it's a more advanced technology my recommendation is to not even consider anything but monocrystalline panels now luckily most of the reputable distributors out there and vendors are only selling monocrystalline panels but i can find things on amazon and find things online
that are still selling the less efficient polycrystalline panels they're really not worth your time now once we have decided that we're going with monocrystalline there's a few more things to consider the two types of categories for installation are fixed panel and portable panel and there's pros and cons
to each a fixed panel might look like this style of panel that can either be attached to a roof rack or it can actually come with hardware to be lagged down to the roof of your camper obviously there's waterproofing sealant and it's a perfectly fine way to install solar panels the other style of fixed
panel actually gets taped with a double-sided vhb tape it's a thin flexible panel now i don't have one of these to demonstrate because they are notoriously fragile when you get one of them you install it right away when you're trying to store them or do demonstrations with them you end up
breaking them but whether you're going with the vhb taped flexible panel or a bolt-on panel either for a roof rack or lagged right down onto the roof these are fixed solar applications so some of the advantages of the fixed panels are that they're always set up the panels are bolted onto your roof so
there's no setup when you get to camp there the other advantage is that they're harder to steal unfortunately we have to consider these things when we're talking about expensive outdoor gear it's much more difficult to steal a panel that's bolted onto your camper than it is to steal a portable panel
the disadvantages however are that there might be some installation costs associated with this if you're not comfortable screwing into your roof and doing the waterproofing and the other advantage disadvantage is that they don't work as well you're not able to angle them at the sun you might
want to park your camper in the shade for these reasons a portable panel actually harvests a lot more energy than one that's fixed to your camper now when working with portable panels there's a lot of options as well now all of these panels we're using are monocrystalline but they have some
different features these glass panels are permanent outside installation panels you can bolt these to the roof of your cabin and they're going to work for many many years there's an advantage to that because they're very rugged these goal zero bolder ones that i'm demonstrating are
some of the better ones that i've seen they have thick corner protection and the suitcase style allows you to fold these up so that they're easier to pack away now the advantages of these are that they work the best you're going to get the best performance out of these panels of any panel that you're going to buy
the disadvantage is that they can be kind of cumbersome they're heavy that's why i recommend spending the extra money on the ones with the hinge the suitcase style they do make the job a little bit easier now you're gonna pay some decent money for high quality panels and in future videos i'll show you some cheaper
alternatives but if you're looking for a real high quality setup this is one of the best ones that i've seen you can also get portable panels these portable panels are lightweight they fold up and this one that we're looking at here is actually the same wattage as this panel here so its
shape is in a linear shape instead of a uh like a big square shape but these panels are capable of getting just as good a charge as one of these panels they do require that you hang them up from hooks off the side of your camper or lean them up against the cooler or something like that so for that reason
most people see lesser or lower performance out of these panels than they do out of the fixed glass panels obviously the advantage of these panels are that when they fold up they're extremely lightweight and they're very easy to store no matter what system we're comparing the pros and cons for here ultimately
the best system is one that's going to incorporate a little bit of all of these maybe a little thick solar a little portable solar some glass and fold up this gives us the adaptability to have the best outcome in any situation one little side benefit from these is they come with their own small charge
controller that can handle usb so i can plug my cell phone my head lamp camera gear directly into this solar panel most of these larger solar panels require the charge controller to be able to do that the last type of portable panel is a hybrid panel and i think i just kind of made that up um basically what it is is
it's a mix between the fix panel and the portable panel goal zero makes one called a ranger i think they only sell it in a 300 watt size but jackery makes those very thin ones that snap up with magnets those panels are good but what i tend to find is that they don't do either thing as well you know when
they're trying to be in the middle they don't collect as much sun as these and they're not nearly as durable a lot more of those panels get broken than these style of durable panels they're also not as flexible as these panels so when you're packing them away they are heavier and they take up more space so
there's a panel out there for everyone but i just also wanted to include those new panels that are somewhere in between these so for this demonstration we've zeroed in on 100 watt glass panel it's suitcase style and it folds up we also selected 100 amp hour agm the next thing we need is a charge
controller now this is the brains of the operation this is actually what's going to charge the battery it just harvests the energy that the panel is producing and converts it into a charge profile now there are a lot of things to consider when you're going with the charge controller and a lot of the
information that i'm finding on the internet is about very advanced systems tons of wattage on the solar panels wired in series multiple lithium iron phosphate batteries it's hard to sift through all of this information which is really talking about like teslas when most of us are talking about priuses so if 99 of
the systems on the market are 100 watts or maybe 200 watts for an rv we're going to talk about a lot more practical approach to selecting your charge controller so a pwm charge controller is an older technology but it does a really really good job in a specific application it just so happens that that specific
application is what 90 some percent of rvers use when they go to solar now a lot of the content that i find online talks about mppt charge controllers being the only option now this is usually specific to very advanced applications larger solar arrays arrays wired in series and certain areas
that get a lot of clouds like the pacific northwest and mppt does better in all of those applications but if you drive around the country and look at the type of solar that most people are using with their campers it's 100 or 200 watts wired in parallel when i test pwm charge controllers against mppt and those
situations they perform almost as well this one was 50 bucks this one was like 79 bucks and it comes with all of the connectors needed to plug into the solar panels the mppt charge controllers are considerably more money and you can't find them waterproof there are a few on the markets that are
big money but most of them have to be installed inside your camper or inside an enclosure these waterproof pwms can go with a suction cup up against the camper you can put a bungee cord around them put them around your battery box they're made to be out in the weather that's a huge advantage for a lot of us
so before you write me with your complaints about this comparison i realize that a mppt is a superior charge controller it's what i use for more complex systems but when you're talking about these smaller systems save your money and go with the pwm you can actually buy a second one because these
things don't last forever so this one was 50 bucks i like to use one that's about 70 to 100 but you can find ones that are even cheaper than this to have a backup when you're camping it's a better option for most people and because it's raining out right now i better put my mppt away
so up next we're going to talk about sizing the system now i know this video is probably going to run long and i know that some people aren't going to be interested in watching a video of this lane but that sizing the system is the most important thing it's what people have to pay someone like me to do for
you and it's very very simple so if you learn how to appropriately size your panels you're going to be able to set up solar on any camper that you're working with or make changes or upgrade the current system that you have now the last thing that we're talking about before we get into that is
connectors and i think i'll do those in a separate video when i'm installing these but it's going to require occasionally for you to work with fork style connectors occasionally you'll have to work with mc4 a very popular connector for solar panels some of them require sae which is really
popular on the kit style that plug into the solar on the side and some of these new ones these new panels that are made to go with uh portable power stations or charge controllers are going to work with anderson power poles like this one here or if you can come around the side they'll
work with eight millimeter eight millimeter barrel plugs that comes in both male and female so there's a lot of different connectors out there but it doesn't have to confuse you it really is simple stuff so when we start installing these in upcoming videos we'll show you which plugs to use
for which situations okay are you still with me if you are this is the most important part of the whole thing i saved it to last for the people with the attention span for you to be able to size solar setups for your camper it's going to start with your battery we talked about having a
three day run time when you're not connected now once you have that it's helpful to understand how much solar you need to be able to do this you basically have to be able to do third grade math so i'm going to show you the formula to make this really easy so welcome to my third grade classroom
the math that we need to know to be able to size these systems is that watts equals volts times amps since we're working with 12 volt systems on these rvs we need to find out the amps to determine the watts or we need to find out the watts to determine the amps so in the case of having 100
amp hour battery we know that we have a 1200 watt reserve capacity it's as simple as this because it's lead acid we know that it's actually a 600 watt capacity because that we can only use half of the battery's capacity so this math is going to help us
determine what we need to know it also is true if you rearrange this that amps equals watts divided by volts so if you're looking for the amperage of something like a solar panel and it's a 120 watt solar panel on a 12 volt system we know that it's a 10 amp charge
controller that we need or that this setup is a 10 amp setup so this simple math can be used whether we have advanced systems or simple systems to be able to size these components together better so for this demonstration we used a 100 amp hour agm that's a 1200 watt hour agm now we know that we can only use 50 of
capacity on lead acid so we have a 600 watt working capacity this is useful information when we're talking about panels the thing about panels is that one of the secrets is you can multiply them by 3.5 to figure out the average amount of wattage you'll get in a day it's an average
sometimes it's going to be more sometimes it's going to be less so it's important to realize that 100 times 3.5 is a 350 watt per day panel now the way we get this formula is that panels are about 70 percent efficient they have to be rated that way because if i took this panel and brought
it to the equator on a mountain it might go to full rating this hundred watt panel might get a hundred watts that's how we have to engineer these but if you live anywhere in the continental u.s this hundred watt panel is not going to get you 100 watts and if it is it's very very rare so the more useful figure
is 70 times 5 hours of average daylight that's the same as multiplying it by 3.5 so we have a 100 watt panel that's a 350 watt per day panel we have a 200 watt panel that's a 700 watt per day panel so if we have 600 usable watts in our battery we know that a 350 watt panel will
probably recover us on most average days remember i told you you should be able to go three days so 600 watts for three days is 200 watts a day so 350 watts per day is going to fill you back up now 200 watt panel over here that brings in 700 watts a day now that's an overkill panel that's actually oversized
to the battery you still might take advantage of using a 200 watt panel and the reason why is because in real world situations you might want to pack this up when you're not around camp you might have it out for a few hours in the morning before you take off to go sightseeing it's a valuable thing to
have it oversized but i wouldn't go any bigger than this because you're going to come up against the limits of how much charge you can put into your lead acid battery anyway so this is how we size things we convert our battery to watts and we take our panels and we multiply them by
3.5 and think of a daily charge a 50 watt panel is going to get 150 watt per day charge that's how we do the conversion now finding a charge controller is even easier just divide it by the 12 volts so if you have a 100 watt panel you know that a 10 amp charge controller can handle 120 watts
if you have a 20 amp charge controller it can handle 240 watts so that simple math is how you size these things together i hope this stuff was helpful i know this isn't the most interesting information in the world but if you learn this stuff all of the future videos that we'll do about installing
solar will make a lot more sense if you want to modify adjust or improve your current solar system this is the sort of math and industry secrets that allow you to do this so i hope you check out my other videos i'll be putting out a ton of content on solar thank you so much for watching ask me a question in the
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